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 If your not familiar with resin casting or in particular Por-A-Kast polyurethane casting resins, this short casting demonstration may help you realise the amazing possibilities a few simple techniques can provide. In this demonstration a two-part mould has already been constructed (designed where original pieces have 3 dimensions and visible sides from all angles). Things like wall plaques or medallions often not viewed from the back or base so a 1-part mould can be made. In this example the original piece was a small figure ornament.
 Stage 1
Let's make a start. Ensure that the mould is ready and sealed up. The mould we are using here has been made from Por-A-Mold S333 encased in a plaster mother mold. It can be seen here in the lower right hand corner. The Por-A-Mold S333 must be sprayed with Synlube mould release agent where resin will come in contact (If the mould is silicone rubber you don't have to use Synlube). Measure out equal amounts of part A & B of Por-A-Kast Mk2 resin. I like to use either a syringe or a plastic measuring cup. If you don't have either you can use 2 cups that are the same and measure out quantities by eye (only if the containers are sort of see-through).
Stage 2
If you want to introduce colours, you do it at this stage, adding a bit at a time until you have the right consistency. You can either add colour to the prepolymer or the curative (Part A or B). It doesn't matter which, but just make sure you have added the colour before you mix the two parts of resin together. If you don't the resin will cure before you can put the colour in! The Por-A-Kast Mk2 resin has a two minute pot life. Here I added oxide red.
Stage 3
Pour in the curative into the mixture, making sure you scrape all the curative from the cup.
Mix thoughly in a figure 8 type motion (This introduces less air bubbles).
Stage 4
Pictured here is how the mould sits inside the plaster mother mould. The funnel is the easiest thing to use to pour the resin into the mould. Mother moulds can be constructed from plaster, resin, pliable plastic etc.
Stage 5
Pouring in the mixture. See how water thin the Por-A-Kast is. This consistency reduces the entrapment of air bubbles.
Stage 6
This is 20 minutes after pouring. Carefully taking out the rubber mould. Seeing if our resin figure worked!

 Stage 7
Our resin figure worked! No need to fill any airbubbles.
Of course if you want to eliminate the chances of air bubbles, you can use a vacuum chamber or check out the spin casting machines (Click here)

The was left for approximately 1 hour to cure before a thin umber antiquing stain was added. The pre tinting of the resin eliminated the need for any further painting for this object.

Stage 8
Cleaning up any used utensils or cups is easy using methylated spirits & a soft cloth. When cleaning syringes use metho a cloth & a long stick ie a chop stick, works well every time. Often it's best to just leave resin in any mixing cups to cure then it's a simple matter of squeezing the cup and the resin just pops out. It couldn't be easier!

Written and Photographed by Antony and Lyn Bunyan

 


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Bunyan Films & Make Your Mark Art Supplies
Phone: (+61 2) 4443 3662 Fax: (+61 2) 4443 2336
Mobile phone 0411 788 234
Email: bunyanfilms@shoalhaven.net.au